Ozark
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Reged: 12/14/05
Posts: 4012
Loc: out in the woods
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I brewed 10 gallons of dark Weizenbock last Thursday, the recipe is in the other thread I posted about it. That's been fermenting in two 6 1/2 gallon carboys, 5 gallons in each.
Today, that beer was ready to rack into secondary fermenters, so I brewed another batch of beer.
10 Gallons
11 lbs. Munton & Fison Light Dry Malt Extract
2 lbs. Wheat Malt Syrup (65% wheat, 35% barley)
1 lb. Malto Dextrin
2 oz. Northern Brewer Hop Pellets, 9.6% alpha, bittering
1/2 tsp. Irish Moss clarifier
1 oz. Cascade Hop Pellets, 6.6% alpha, finishing
1 pack SAF S-23 Lager Yeast
Starting gravity = 1.064
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Of last Thursday's batch of Black Wheat Beer, I siphoned 1/3 out of one primary fermenter and 2/3 out of the other one to fill a 5 gallon secondary carboy. That makes 5 gallons of that batch, straight.
Of today's light-colored beer, I siphoned 5 gallons from the cooled brewpot into a 6 1/2 gallon primary carboy and pitched the pack of yeast. That's 5 gallons of that batch, straight.
I siphoned the other 5 gallons of the new beer from the brewpot into the primary fermenters of the first batch, bringing them both back up to the 5 gallon mark.
So now I've got four different beers going from two brewings, 5 gallons of each kind.
Beer #1 - Black Wheat Beer from the first brewing, 65% wheat malt, 35% barley malt. A heavy black lager with Hallertauer hops.
Beer #2 - Dark Amber Heavy Lager, a blend of 2/3 the first batch with 1/3 the second batch. 47% wheat malt, 53% barley malt. Mostly Hallertauer, with Northern Brewer and Cascade hops.
Beer #3 - Amber Heavy Lager, a blend of 1/3 the first batch with 2/3 the second batch. 28% wheat malt, 72% barley malt. Mostly Northern Brewer, with Hallertauer and Cascade hops.
Beer #4 - Light-colored Heavy Lager from the second brewing, 9% wheat malt, 91% barley malt. Northern Brewer and Cascade hops.
There was no need to pitch yeast in beers #2 and #3 - I was racking new beer onto fermented beer with live yeast in it. Fermentation kicked off in about 15 minutes.
You've just gotta make your own fun.
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Paul Dallas
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Reged: 12/14/05
Posts: 1189
Loc: the corner of Bedlam & Squalor
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fermentation in 15 minutes . . . sweet jehovah witness, I could see how a feller might actually appreciate that kind of yeast infection.
I didn't know you could do that, oz. It makes sense from what I reads about yeasties, but I just didn't think of it in terms of a practical application for the homebrewer. Course you gotta be motivated to go on a brewing tear in consecutive order.
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Ozark
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Reged: 12/14/05
Posts: 4012
Loc: out in the woods
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Quote:
Paul Dallas said:
I didn't know you could do that, oz. ..... I just didn't think of it in terms of a practical application for the homebrewer.
Yep, it's easy to reap the "yeast dividend" - just brew a new batch on the day you're racking from a primary to a secondary.
Aerobic fermentation - that lag time in which you're waiting for activity to start, is while yeast cells are dividing and making more yeast. Once they get up to a saturation point (a gazillion cells per liter - I forget how many), the yeast cells switch over to anaerobic fermentation - changing sugar into alcohol and CO2. That's when you see it.
It's fun to rack a new beer onto the dregs of an old one. There's lots of yeast present so it starts working right away - kind of a foamy yeast orgy.
So far as motivation, I'd say I drink four beers a day on average. 20 gallons = 200 beers, a fifty-day supply. That's a lot of beer for just a few hours work. You can see why I wanted four different kinds out of it though, for a little variety.
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Mr_Turtlehead
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Reged: 12/14/05
Posts: 201
Loc: In The Shell
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Do ya lager it in your kegerator Oz? What would you guess as the IBU profile of each one of those brews?
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Ozark
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Reged: 12/14/05
Posts: 4012
Loc: out in the woods
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Quote:
Mr_Turtlehead said:
Do ya lager it in your kegerator Oz? What would you guess as the IBU profile of each one of those brews?
No, I don't have room in the 'fridge for carboys. The coldest I can get them right now is 65 degrees on the floor of my downstairs shop. The dry SAF S-23 Lager yeast does pretty good at that temp, though. It'll put at least a HALF lager character in those beers.
When the weather turns cold I'll do some real cold-lagering with fermenters on the workbench of my unheated garage. It averages about 38 in there in winter, so that's perfect. I'll switch over to liquid lager yeast strains for that.
As per hops, I don't think in IBU's (which take boiling time and SG into account). I just go by HBU's (Papazian's homebrew bittering units) which are simplistic. HBU is Alpha Acid x Ounces of hops in 5 gallons.
So the first brewing, the black beer, is real mild. (2.25 oz. x 4.2 A /2 = 4.73). Throw in a little for the finishing hops and call it 5 HBU's.
The second brewing, the light colored bock, should have twice the bitterness. (2 oz. x 9.6 A /2 = 9.6). Including finishing hops, I'd call it 10 HBU's.
That should make the blended beers in the middle 6.67 and 8.33 HBU's. I did that on purpose to make all four beers come out noticeably different from each other - and the three different hop varieties in the different blends should add some complexity.
All four of these beers are BOCKS, of a sort, and malt needs to dominate in all of them. I hopped the wheat beer the lightest because hop bitterness interferes with wheat character - and the hops get heavier as the blends move towards barley malt.
We got this stuff figured out - and I bet they'll all be good.
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